Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
It is the beginning of summer in here.
I started the seedling grafting early spring, in September in this year.
It will be continued to January next year.
I have completed the grafting of following seedlings.
Astrophytum hybrid fukuryu-banjyaku: 24
Ariocarpus retusus v furfuraceus cv Suguri-cauliflower: 24
Ariocarpus retusus v furfuraceus cv daruma-seiji: 24
Ariocarpos fissuratus v intermedius: 24
Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus f Rio Verde: 11
Followings are under grafting process.
Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus f Rio Verde: 13
Ariocarpus retusus cv daruma-royal: 4
1. Grafting stocks
I got 10 cuttings in 2008, which were Pereskiopsis velutina, I assumed.
They push many offshoots up vigorously at moment.
I cut offshoots for stocks when they reached 15 cm length.
2. Rooting of stocks
I set stocks in 50 mm square tubes and keep them in a wet-box for 7 days.
It may or may not be rooted in 7 days but I start to graft.
3. Grafting
Scions are around 40 days old seedlings, about 2 mm diameter.
I keep them in another wet-box for 10 days after grafted.
4. Setting in permanent pots
50 mm tube is just for the grafting process.
I set the stock with scion in 90 mm x 180 mm depth square pot after completed the grafting process.
I normally can see roots formed from stocks during this repotting.
The photo is scions with stocks in 90 mm pots.
5. Scions
A. fukuryu-banjyake grafted in September
A. fissuratus v intermedius grafted 20 days ago
I started the seedling grafting early spring, in September in this year.
It will be continued to January next year.
I have completed the grafting of following seedlings.
Astrophytum hybrid fukuryu-banjyaku: 24
Ariocarpus retusus v furfuraceus cv Suguri-cauliflower: 24
Ariocarpus retusus v furfuraceus cv daruma-seiji: 24
Ariocarpos fissuratus v intermedius: 24
Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus f Rio Verde: 11
Followings are under grafting process.
Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus f Rio Verde: 13
Ariocarpus retusus cv daruma-royal: 4
1. Grafting stocks
I got 10 cuttings in 2008, which were Pereskiopsis velutina, I assumed.
They push many offshoots up vigorously at moment.
I cut offshoots for stocks when they reached 15 cm length.
2. Rooting of stocks
I set stocks in 50 mm square tubes and keep them in a wet-box for 7 days.
It may or may not be rooted in 7 days but I start to graft.
3. Grafting
Scions are around 40 days old seedlings, about 2 mm diameter.
I keep them in another wet-box for 10 days after grafted.
4. Setting in permanent pots
50 mm tube is just for the grafting process.
I set the stock with scion in 90 mm x 180 mm depth square pot after completed the grafting process.
I normally can see roots formed from stocks during this repotting.
The photo is scions with stocks in 90 mm pots.
5. Scions
A. fukuryu-banjyake grafted in September
A. fissuratus v intermedius grafted 20 days ago
Re: Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
Wow! But where do you put all the plants, if you graft 24 of each cultivar? because if you do that every year, you'll need lots of space. Compared to you, i'm just playing around with grafting(one that took and one that is in progress)
Young professional amateur in Schlumbergera and Rhipsalidopsis growing and hybridizing
Re: Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
First off, great job! You must have practiced for ages to get that good at grafting. Or you just have some extreme talent.
Second, what do you do with all those grafts anyway? And when you degraft them, what happens to the Pereskiopsis it was attached to? If I had as many as you do I would probably start chopping them up for firewood haha
Second, what do you do with all those grafts anyway? And when you degraft them, what happens to the Pereskiopsis it was attached to? If I had as many as you do I would probably start chopping them up for firewood haha
Say no to drugs, say yes to cacti
Re: Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
Impressive! I love watching the progress, and your technique.
Mark
Mark
Re: Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
As you can see on the photo, 90 mm square pots are on a plastic pad.
Since 12 pots are accommodated in a pad, I grafted 24 for each species, 2 pads for each species.
The success rate of seedling grafting onto Pereskiopsis is quite high. I grafted around 100 so far and not perfect but failed just 2.
Peleskiopsis stocks will lose leaves in 2nd winter in my place and reduced growing speed of the scion.
I degraft all scions when they reached to 2 years old, in spring.
Almost all scions have grown the size to fit in 8 cm square pot at that time.
The attached photo is degrafted A. retusus v furfuraceus cv daruma-seiji, 2 years old.
Each of them in a 8 cm square pot, 12 pots on a pad.
I have 2 greenhouses. I keep grafted cacti in large one, 12 m x 7 m space.
There is space limitation but I can manage at moment.
Pereskiopsis stocks removed scions are moved into a garbage bin.
Since 12 pots are accommodated in a pad, I grafted 24 for each species, 2 pads for each species.
The success rate of seedling grafting onto Pereskiopsis is quite high. I grafted around 100 so far and not perfect but failed just 2.
Peleskiopsis stocks will lose leaves in 2nd winter in my place and reduced growing speed of the scion.
I degraft all scions when they reached to 2 years old, in spring.
Almost all scions have grown the size to fit in 8 cm square pot at that time.
The attached photo is degrafted A. retusus v furfuraceus cv daruma-seiji, 2 years old.
Each of them in a 8 cm square pot, 12 pots on a pad.
I have 2 greenhouses. I keep grafted cacti in large one, 12 m x 7 m space.
There is space limitation but I can manage at moment.
Pereskiopsis stocks removed scions are moved into a garbage bin.
Re: Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
Cool! Lol i probably got 2 graftings to take out of 100 tries
Young professional amateur in Schlumbergera and Rhipsalidopsis growing and hybridizing
Re: Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
snarfie
I understand it is winter in your place currently but you got a terrible result.
Pereskiopsis stocks accept various scions including hard offsets such as Geohitonia and Azutekium if you grafted them in spring and summer.
I can get a good result similar to seedling grafting for hard scions grafting without any pressure onto scions.
I think you may be missing a critical factor of the grafting.
Hanazono
I understand it is winter in your place currently but you got a terrible result.
Pereskiopsis stocks accept various scions including hard offsets such as Geohitonia and Azutekium if you grafted them in spring and summer.
I can get a good result similar to seedling grafting for hard scions grafting without any pressure onto scions.
I think you may be missing a critical factor of the grafting.
Hanazono
Re: Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
Updated photos of scions
Ariocarpus retusus v furfuraceus cv Suguri-cauliflower
Ariocapus retusus v furfuraceus cv daruma-seiji
Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus f Rio Verde
The scion is still pale because it just came out from the wet-box 2 days ago after the completion of grafting process.
Ariocarpus retusus v furfuraceus cv Suguri-cauliflower
Ariocapus retusus v furfuraceus cv daruma-seiji
Ariocarpus kotschoubeyanus f Rio Verde
The scion is still pale because it just came out from the wet-box 2 days ago after the completion of grafting process.
Re: Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
Indeed terrible results, but i tried about 40 graftings two years ago on hylocereus, but stock and scion both weren't actively growing, and i didn't sterilize or gave them extra humidity. This year i had about 20 tries, and 5 succeeded, but knocked 3 off. This year i used pereskiopsis that wasn't really growing. The years before i only had hylocereus to try. The only successful grafts this year were on o. Subulata, and o. Subulata monstruosa and i sterilized the knife, and used pressure, and with the successful grafts were both on actively growing stocks with soft/fresh/young scions.
Photo of my first successful graft below. Pereskiopsis on o. Subulata monstruosa.
Photo of my first successful graft below. Pereskiopsis on o. Subulata monstruosa.
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Young professional amateur in Schlumbergera and Rhipsalidopsis growing and hybridizing
Re: Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
I have no experience to use subulata stocks but used to use Hylocereus stocks before I got Pereskiopsis in 2008.
The attached photo shows the seedling grafting with Hylocereus stocks.
No pressure was given on scions.
Paper caps were used for stopping direct-sunlight and minimizing drying up of scions.
Grafting success rate was more than 90%.
The attached photo shows the seedling grafting with Hylocereus stocks.
No pressure was given on scions.
Paper caps were used for stopping direct-sunlight and minimizing drying up of scions.
Grafting success rate was more than 90%.
Re: Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
I recently ordered some Hylocereus undatus seeds. I know it's not the fastest method to obtain a species like this, but when a single cutting is $10 plus shipping, and I can find 50 seeds for only $.99, and I don't even have to do that, I can just go down to my local Asian food market and pick up a Dragonfruit for a dollar of so, I'm choosing the cheaper option. How long should they take to get to a graftable size?
Say no to drugs, say yes to cacti
Re: Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
I bought a Dragon-fruit and sowed seeds years ago.
The germination rate was good and grew more than 10 cm tall in 3 years.
Seedlings of Dragon-fruit were too thin and could not use for the grafting stocks unfortunately.
I stated to increase numbers from a single cutting.
Hylocereus shown on my photo is 3 years later.
The germination rate was good and grew more than 10 cm tall in 3 years.
Seedlings of Dragon-fruit were too thin and could not use for the grafting stocks unfortunately.
I stated to increase numbers from a single cutting.
Hylocereus shown on my photo is 3 years later.
Re: Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
Is the tip of the paper cone resting on the scion for additional pressure or just on the stock to keep humidity and block light? It's kind of hard to see the width.
Re: Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
Hanazono's experience is exactly the same as mine! Grow your seeds certainly, they are easy and will be useful one day, but not for a few years. Why not send me a PM and let's see how I can help you. 10 bucks for a Hylocereus plant is far too expensive. Alternatively, see if you can find a grafted "moon cactus", the hideous Gymnos that are sold as grafted plants. Here in the UK they are invariably grafted on Hylocereus stocks. Remove the abomination from it's top and side shoots will emerge for use as cuttings. They root very easily.Hanazono wrote:I bought a Dragon-fruit and sowed seeds years ago.
The germination rate was good and grew more than 10 cm tall in 3 years.
Seedlings of Dragon-fruit were too thin and could not use for the grafting stocks unfortunately.
I stated to increase numbers from a single cutting.
Hylocereus shown on my photo is 3 years later.
I actually thought about you whilst in my greenhouse about two weeks ago. I was trimming all of the excess growths from my Pereskiopsis in readiness for winter and I ended up with a bucketful, all useless scrap to me, but they would have been treasure to you. I gave them to my daughter in law to feed the calcium rich leaves to her tortoises.
Re: Hana's grafting in 2014/2015
The paper cap does not contact the scion at all.
It can protect the scion from direct-sunlight and can minimize dry-up the scion.
The scion shrinks during grafting process and formed air-gap between the scion and the stock.
It will be a cause of the grafting failure.
The pressure onto the scion can compensate the shrinkage.
The amount of the shrinkage depends upon the mass of scion.
Since I use very young and small seedlings as scions, it is not necessary to give any pressure onto the scion.
I use seedlings around 40 days after germination, 2 mm diameter.
From my experience, these seedlings show the best success rate of the grafting without compensation pressure.
The same method can use for the small Mammillaria tubercle grafting.
The photo is a tubercle grafting of luethi.
It can protect the scion from direct-sunlight and can minimize dry-up the scion.
The scion shrinks during grafting process and formed air-gap between the scion and the stock.
It will be a cause of the grafting failure.
The pressure onto the scion can compensate the shrinkage.
The amount of the shrinkage depends upon the mass of scion.
Since I use very young and small seedlings as scions, it is not necessary to give any pressure onto the scion.
I use seedlings around 40 days after germination, 2 mm diameter.
From my experience, these seedlings show the best success rate of the grafting without compensation pressure.
The same method can use for the small Mammillaria tubercle grafting.
The photo is a tubercle grafting of luethi.