Grafting seedlings on to Harrisia root stock..

[orion]

Has anybody tried this? Is this a good idea or should I just try grafting to Hylocereus instead? As I only have a bunch of Harrisia jusbertii that I can use for grafting and would like to give seedling grafting a try. I have tried and succeeded after a couple of attempts with grafting offsets to Harrisia before.

Mac

[coltonschultz]

Looks like a good grafting stock to me! For seedlings, however, pereskiopsis is much easier. But I'd like to see your results!

[adetheproducer]

I've seen it used before, what scions you thinking of using?

[Robb]

Harrisia can work well as a grafting stock, other than being less than cold hardy. Unlike Pereskiopsis it doesn't tend to "Beef up" the scion and gives it a more natural look. You may want to think about using the Cling-film method for Harrisia grafting- the sap isn't as sticky as Pereskiopsis and won't glue the scion in place. I would consider seedling grafting onto Pereskiopsis before you try Harrisia, as Pereskiopsis is a much easier stock for grafting.

[orion]

I have some Astrophytum and some from mixed packs (for practice) that I want to try to graft. I will also be sowing some Lophophora seeds in the coming week or so.
I am planning to use cut-up stockings to secure the scion onto the rootstock. I have read a lot about the advantages of using Pereskiopsis root stocks, sadly I am unable to find a local source, thus opted for Harrisia.

[Hanazono]

My standard grafting stock for young seedlings is Harrisia jusbertii.
If seedlings were around 40 days old, the success rate of grafting is almost 100%.
You can graft 4~5 days old seedlings also.

If seedlings were less than 40 days old, you do not need the compensation of scion shrinkage and so it is not necessary to give any pressure on the scion.
I use 3 years old H. jusbertii seedlings for the root stock.
You can make many stocks as you like if you started form seed.
To minimize dry up the scion, I use a paper cap.

In wet season, a black skin is formed on the cutting face of the H. jusbertii because of longer drying time.
I wipe the cutting face by paper and remove liquid before the grafting.

[orion]

I use 3 years old H. jusbertii seedlings for the root stock.

Does it make any difference in growth rate/performance in using older cuttings?

To minimize dry up the scion, I use a paper cap.

How long do you keep them under humid conditions?

In wet season, a black skin is formed on the cutting face of the H. jusbertii because of longer drying time.

is this what you ate referring to?

DSC_0304.jpg (33.52 KiB) Viewed 4750 times

I have been wondering what this is... This was an attempt in grafting an offset to Harrisia stock, after mounting the scion i placed the pot indoors away from strong light and a cut-off plastic bottle over it. the black patch stated forming on the third/fourth day, and i removed the bottle immediately, thinking it might be mold or something bad. The scion took and the resulting after 2 months is this

DSC_0282.jpg (30.81 KiB) Viewed 4750 times

[Hanazono]

There is no difference between seedling and cutting stocks for the scion growing rate and performance.
I keep around 100 stocks normally. To keep these quantities, it is easier starting from seeds than cuttings.

It may be infected with virus If you used cutting stocks.
It may be repeatedly cut in history and infected with virus during cutting process.
Virus is remained stocks.
Virus in stock will transfer to scions and shows yellow/black spots and reducing growing speed.
Virus does not transfer through seed.

Your photo shows a black skin.
Fortunately black skin is out of joint. If it appeared on the joint, grafting will fail.

The paper cap is not sealed moisture completely.
I keep the cap 1 week and inspect the scion.
I cut the top of cap off if the grafting was successful result.
The cap will be kept for 1 month.

Paper caps

A scion inspected 1 week after grafting

[orion]

Thanks for sharing your experience, Hanzano! It's been a great help!

[promethean_spark]

Harissia is my go-to stock as well, it produces fast growth and it's slightly hardier than pereskiopsis (no problem in my unheated GH). Also, no glochids! I use grafting tape or cling wrap on large scions, super glue on medium sized ones, and just set small ones on the vascular ring. Pereskiopsis really slows down as a stock once it's leaves fall off, but harissia grows fast continuously.