Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
Re: Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
I think each person has different opinion and experience.
I graft young seedlings onto unrooted Perskiopsis stocks, not so many around 50 every year.
I can achieve almost 100% of success rate.
Setting 15 cm length of young Pereskiopsis shoots into 50 mm tube and keep them in a wet-box for 1 week
This is a temporary setting for the grafting.
Grafting seedlings onto pereskiopsis stocks. No roots are developed on stocks yet at that time, I think.
Moved scions and stocks into an other wet-box.
Keeping them in there for 1 week and finish the grafting process, in total 2 weeks.
I repot them into 90 mm square x 180 mm depth pots permanently.
During repotteing, I check the development of roots.
Normally the development of roots begin at that time.
Since this spring is cooler than normal year, I could not see any roots on Pereskiopsis stocks which were kept 19 days in total in wet-boxes.
All of them were grafted successfully.
When Pereskiopis stocks lost leaves, the growing speed of scion is reduced dramatically.
The stock should have leaves.
I graft young seedlings onto unrooted Perskiopsis stocks, not so many around 50 every year.
I can achieve almost 100% of success rate.
Setting 15 cm length of young Pereskiopsis shoots into 50 mm tube and keep them in a wet-box for 1 week
This is a temporary setting for the grafting.
Grafting seedlings onto pereskiopsis stocks. No roots are developed on stocks yet at that time, I think.
Moved scions and stocks into an other wet-box.
Keeping them in there for 1 week and finish the grafting process, in total 2 weeks.
I repot them into 90 mm square x 180 mm depth pots permanently.
During repotteing, I check the development of roots.
Normally the development of roots begin at that time.
Since this spring is cooler than normal year, I could not see any roots on Pereskiopsis stocks which were kept 19 days in total in wet-boxes.
All of them were grafted successfully.
When Pereskiopis stocks lost leaves, the growing speed of scion is reduced dramatically.
The stock should have leaves.
My favorite cacti photos are in Flickr https://www.flickr.com/photos/146109677@N06/albums/
Re: Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
The base of the scion in the Astrophytum graft has gone black a little. However, it is not that widespread so there still is hope, isn't there?
Say no to drugs, say yes to cacti
Re: Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
The Astrophytum graft was bad, so I regrafted with a San Pedro seedling. I also grafted another Astrophytum coahuilense seedling onto another stock. I think I'm beginning to isolate problems with my grafting procedure. 1. I actually don't sterilize that much, I just wipe the edges of the blade, not the whole blade. I guess I thought that was the only part the seedling touched, not thinking it would touch other parts on the journey through the blade. 2. I am very clumsy and don't take my time very much. I think the San Pedro graft touched the bag while I was putting it on for example. Those small things could probably mean the difference between success and failure.
Say no to drugs, say yes to cacti
- Brunãozinho
- Posts: 424
- Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2012 1:33 am
- Location: Paraíba, Eastern Brazil
Re: Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
Hey there Paul, yeah, nice to see you're back posting here!paulzie32 wrote:Hey Bruno... Long time no speak
Yes... Stored energy. That's why I suggested using Opuntia instead of unrooted pereskiopsis. More stored energy in the Opuntia pads.
It's nice to know that you don't need to wait for them to root before grafting.Hanazono wrote:I think each person has different opinion and experience.
I graft young seedlings onto unrooted Perskiopsis stocks, not so many around 50 every year.
I can achieve almost 100% of success rate.
It will only get better if you keep trying.Driller64 wrote:The Astrophytum graft was bad, so I regrafted with a San Pedro seedling. I also grafted another Astrophytum coahuilense seedling onto another stock. I think I'm beginning to isolate problems with my grafting procedure. 1. I actually don't sterilize that much, I just wipe the edges of the blade, not the whole blade. I guess I thought that was the only part the seedling touched, not thinking it would touch other parts on the journey through the blade. 2. I am very clumsy and don't take my time very much. I think the San Pedro graft touched the bag while I was putting it on for example. Those small things could probably mean the difference between success and failure.
Bruno
Re: Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
The San Pedro graft showed the rust color on the first day. At this point I just called it quits. I took the San Pedro scion off and left the Astrophytum graft. So yeah, going to quit grafting until the next growing season, and I am going to continue to propagate my Pereskiopsis.
Say no to drugs, say yes to cacti
Re: Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
I've found the secret to getting my Pereskiopsis to root. The secret is to LEAVE THEM THE HELL ALONE. For a week, at least. No taking them out and checking for roots. I guess taking them out "resets" them and causes them to have to go through the rooting process all over again. I've never had that problem with cuttings of shrubs I've taken, but I guess Pereskiopsis is different :S
Say no to drugs, say yes to cacti
Re: Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
I just did my first (seemingly) successful graft onto Pereskiopsis using a 2 month L. williamsii seedling as scion. I say seemingly because after about 5 days now the scion is still green and attached to the base whereas my previous attempts would've been long dried out by now. How long would you more experienced grafters say would be safe to wait until I can say the graft took and was actually a success? Does the Pereskiopsis root system continue to develop while the scion is being pumped up?
Re: Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
Try the very gentle sideways pressure test. After 5 days, the scion should be knitted onto the stock. Did you keep the graft in very humid conditions?
Steve
Steve
Re: Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
I made a makeshift humidity chamber out of a plastic bottle with the top cut off that seems to be holding moisture relatively well. Gentle horizontal pressure test seems to hold up.
Re: Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
Here is a recently rooted Pereskiopsis cutting of mine. You can see the roots coming out of it at soil level. It's not graftable yet because the stem is so thin, but it will get bigger in time. This cutting didn't root for about two weeks in my Pereskiopsis stock plant pot, but it rooted when I stuck it in this pot. I think another key to fast rooting is not to plant the cutting too deep. One inch in the soil should be the maximum depth that the cutting should be inserted, otherwise the cutting has to make more roots on the extra stem, which takes longer. Well I'm just happy to have another rooted cutting that will hopefully start growing soon
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Say no to drugs, say yes to cacti
Re: Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
Just stand the Pereskiopsis cuttings in an inch of water. That way you can see the roots developing.
And have patience!
Steve
And have patience!
Steve
Re: Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
What happens if the root half of a seedling is grafted? I recently did a little test by grafting both halves of a sliced seedling to two different stocks and both seem healthy so far. I'm not too sure what to expect from the once-bottom part of the scion.
- Brunãozinho
- Posts: 424
- Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2012 1:33 am
- Location: Paraíba, Eastern Brazil
Re: Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
The bottom can stay there and do nothing, or eventually die, but in some cases a pups grows from it.
Bruno
Re: Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
Growth as of 10/17/14Driller64 wrote:Here is a recently rooted Pereskiopsis cutting of mine. You can see the roots coming out of it at soil level. It's not graftable yet because the stem is so thin, but it will get bigger in time. This cutting didn't root for about two weeks in my Pereskiopsis stock plant pot, but it rooted when I stuck it in this pot. I think another key to fast rooting is not to plant the cutting too deep. One inch in the soil should be the maximum depth that the cutting should be inserted, otherwise the cutting has to make more roots on the extra stem, which takes longer. Well I'm just happy to have another rooted cutting that will hopefully start growing soon
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Say no to drugs, say yes to cacti
Re: Pereskiopsis grafting = pic heavy
am new in cactus grafting, i wish to try to use Pereskiopsis Spathulata as the root stock
however, i can not find the Pereskiopsis Spathulata in my country (Malaysia) although i have searched it in the nursery.
i found this plant is sold in certain online shop in oversea (UK, US), but i am not afford for the price and the shipping cost. Furthermore, i do not have a credit card to pay (i am a student).
Do you know anybody in Malaysia have Pereskiopsis Spathulata? or any cheaper source for Pereskiopsis Spathulata?
thank you very much
however, i can not find the Pereskiopsis Spathulata in my country (Malaysia) although i have searched it in the nursery.
i found this plant is sold in certain online shop in oversea (UK, US), but i am not afford for the price and the shipping cost. Furthermore, i do not have a credit card to pay (i am a student).
Do you know anybody in Malaysia have Pereskiopsis Spathulata? or any cheaper source for Pereskiopsis Spathulata?
thank you very much