Can this cactus be saved?
Can this cactus be saved?
Hello, I’ve had this cactus for about 8 years. I don’t know what kind it is. But for the 8 years I’ve had it, it has been in the same south facing window with the same care routine. I water a little once a week in spring/summer and once every two weeks in the winter. Recently it has started to discolor from the bottom up. Can the base be saved or should I do something drastic and cut the top off and try to re-root it? Thanks for any help or advice!
Re: Can this cactus be saved?
Welcome to the forum . It looks like at some point it didn't get enough sun because of the enlongated growth. I would think that you can cut off the top portion and let it dry out and repot. Maybe someone with experience with this cactus species can chime in with their opinion.
Re: Can this cactus be saved?
Looks like Eriocactus warasii grown in deficience of sun. Check with looking glass it's base to exclude red mites, if no it will be corcking due to unsuitable conditions.
Last edited by anttisepp on Sun May 19, 2024 1:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Steve Johnson
- Posts: 4593
- Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2011 4:44 am
- Location: Los Angeles, CA (Zone 10b)
Re: Can this cactus be saved?
First of all, see this:Deejay wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2024 1:57 pm Hello, I’ve had this cactus for about 8 years. I don’t know what kind it is. But for the 8 years I’ve had it, it has been in the same south facing window with the same care routine. I water a little once a week in spring/summer and once every two weeks in the winter. Recently it has started to discolor from the bottom up. Can the base be saved or should I do something drastic and cut the top off and try to re-root it? Thanks for any help or advice!IMG_2024-05-18-074031.jpeg
https://www.cactiguide.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43819
There's only one way to water cacti in the growing season -- deeply, as in water coming out the pot's drain hole like a faucet. They need to let their roots go from wet to completely dry between waterings, so I recommend watering every 2 weeks. I'll assume that you live in the northern hemisphere, in which case you should leave the occasional sips for fall and winter since your cactus will be dormant then. If you've only been giving it sips in the spring and summer, the plant isn't getting enough water. (By the way, the growing and dormant seasons are flipped around in the southern hemisphere.)
Another key factor is fertilizer. Have you been fertilizing your cactus? If so, how often, and what fertilizer are you using? Fert labels should include a complete chemical analysis of all nutrients. If you post it here, we'll see if your fert is right for cacti.
The thin part of the stem is caused by etiolation (not elongation as madkactus called it) due to inadequate light. You can cut out the etiolated part like this:
The angled cut prevents water from pooling up on the top. Sterilize a sharp knife with alcohol right before you cut. After you do, apply a layer of sulfur powder to the freshly-exposed tissue -- this prevents mold and fungal infection. Let the cut dry out and form a callus in 2-3 weeks, then start watering around the base. A new head will eventually start growing on top, and you may end up with more than one. Here's something else you can do:
Once again, sterilize a sharp knife with alcohol, then make the cut and apply a layer of sulfur powder to the freshly-exposed tissue. The next part will be a bit trickier if you don't have any experience rooting a cactus cutting, but I'll guide you through it:
- Step 1. Take an empty container, place the cutting upside down in the container and let the exposed tissue form a callus -- give it at least a month before you're ready for step 2.
- Step 2. Take an empty pot and fill it partway up with your mix of choice. That's your substrate. Add a 1"-2" layer of potting sand on top of the substrate. If you live in the US, you can buy it on Amazon here:
https://www.amazon.com/Original-Ingredi ... 9hdGY&th=1
Dig the cutting into the potting sand, but not into the substrate.
- If you don't already have one, buy a watering spray bottle. Don't set the nozzle to stream, set it to spray so you can lightly mist the stem. Do it once a month -- believe it or not, this helps in the rooting process.
Growing cacti as houseplants can be a problem since they need plenty of light, and ambient light in the house doesn't quite cut it. You can solve the problem with a full-spectrum LED grow light. This will give you some ideas:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=full-spectru ... doa-p_2_13
I come from the "olden times" when indoor lighting was either incandescent or fluorescent -- not at all good for growing cacti indoors. LED lighting has been a real game-changer, so you don't have to make do with the light coming in from your windows anymore. Take advantage of it.
If you just want photos without all the blather, please visit my Flickr gallery.
My location: Los Angeles, CA (Zone 10b)
My location: Los Angeles, CA (Zone 10b)
Re: Can this cactus be saved?
Wow, that's a lot of info. I really appreciate you taking the time to write it all down and give your analysis. I have added my location to my profile as you have suggested. The cactus has not gotten any fertilizer while in my possession. I do have a question about lighting after cutting. Should the base and top be in full light or do they need more muted lighting to recover while callusing over? Also would a glass container for the top that allows more light be better or an opaque container be best? Again thank you for your input and assistance.Steve Johnson wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2024 9:41 pmFirst of all, see this:Deejay wrote: ↑Sat May 18, 2024 1:57 pm Hello, I’ve had this cactus for about 8 years. I don’t know what kind it is. But for the 8 years I’ve had it, it has been in the same south facing window with the same care routine. I water a little once a week in spring/summer and once every two weeks in the winter. Recently it has started to discolor from the bottom up. Can the base be saved or should I do something drastic and cut the top off and try to re-root it? Thanks for any help or advice!IMG_2024-05-18-074031.jpeg
https://www.cactiguide.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=43819
There's only one way to water cacti in the growing season -- deeply, as in water coming out the pot's drain hole like a faucet. They need to let their roots go from wet to completely dry between waterings, so I recommend watering every 2 weeks. I'll assume that you live in the northern hemisphere, in which case you should leave the occasional sips for fall and winter since your cactus will be dormant then. If you've only been giving it sips in the spring and summer, the plant isn't getting enough water. (By the way, the growing and dormant seasons are flipped around in the southern hemisphere.)
Another key factor is fertilizer. Have you been fertilizing your cactus? If so, how often, and what fertilizer are you using? Fert labels should include a complete chemical analysis of all nutrients. If you post it here, we'll see if your fert is right for cacti.
The thin part of the stem is caused by etiolation (not elongation as madkactus called it) due to inadequate light. You can cut out the etiolated part like this:
IMG_2024-05-18-074031.jpg
The angled cut prevents water from pooling up on the top. Sterilize a sharp knife with alcohol right before you cut. After you do, apply a layer of sulfur powder to the freshly-exposed tissue -- this prevents mold and fungal infection. Let the cut dry out and form a callus in 2-3 weeks, then start watering around the base. A new head will eventually start growing on top, and you may end up with more than one. Here's something else you can do:
Stem_for_rooting.jpg
Once again, sterilize a sharp knife with alcohol, then make the cut and apply a layer of sulfur powder to the freshly-exposed tissue. The next part will be a bit trickier if you don't have any experience rooting a cactus cutting, but I'll guide you through it:
- Step 1. Take an empty container, place the cutting upside down in the container and let the exposed tissue form a callus -- give it at least a month before you're ready for step 2.
- Step 2. Take an empty pot and fill it partway up with your mix of choice. That's your substrate. Add a 1"-2" layer of potting sand on top of the substrate. If you live in the US, you can buy it on Amazon here:
https://www.amazon.com/Original-Ingredi ... 9hdGY&th=1
Dig the cutting into the potting sand, but not into the substrate.The cutting needs to start growing roots before you can even think about watering the plant. The rooting process takes patience, so figure on a year from the time when you get the cutting into its rooting pot. Let's say you do this at the beginning of July -- July 2025 would be the time to take it out of the rooting pot, clean off the sand from the roots, then repot in your mix of choice and start giving it water on a regular basis.
- If you don't already have one, buy a watering spray bottle. Don't set the nozzle to stream, set it to spray so you can lightly mist the stem. Do it once a month -- believe it or not, this helps in the rooting process.
Growing cacti as houseplants can be a problem since they need plenty of light, and ambient light in the house doesn't quite cut it. You can solve the problem with a full-spectrum LED grow light. This will give you some ideas:
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=full-spectru ... doa-p_2_13
I come from the "olden times" when indoor lighting was either incandescent or fluorescent -- not at all good for growing cacti indoors. LED lighting has been a real game-changer, so you don't have to make do with the light coming in from your windows anymore. Take advantage of it.
- Steve Johnson
- Posts: 4593
- Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2011 4:44 am
- Location: Los Angeles, CA (Zone 10b)
Re: Can this cactus be saved?
Hi Deejay,Deejay wrote: ↑Tue May 21, 2024 5:23 pmI do have a question about lighting after cutting. Should the base and top be in full light or do they need more muted lighting to recover while callusing over? Also would a glass container for the top that allows more light be better or an opaque container be best?
If you're talking about indoor lighting, full light is fine as long as it's indirect. Direct sunlight right next to a windows is a problem due to sun scorch, but I don't think you'll have that problem. If you have your cacti outdoors in the spring and/or summer, give them light shade, not full sun. Cacti need good air flow under all circumstances, so don't put a top on them -- especially not on your upside down cutting.
That's a much bigger problem -- cacti need to be fertilized in the spring-summer growing season when they're grown in pots. If someone told you otherwise, they don't know what they're talking about. I'll recommend the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Grow-More-5118-T ... 166&sr=8-9
https://www.amazon.com/True-Organic-Pla ... 9hdGY&th=1
The Bromeliad Tillandsia food is also good for cacti. Dilute 1/8 level teaspoon per gallon of water. Supplement your watering solution with 1/4 tsp. nitrogen-free TPS CalMag per gallon. As soon as you're ready to start a watering schedule for the rooted base, be sure to fertilize it too. After the initial feeding, I'd normally recommend feeding with every 3rd or 4th watering, but with 8 years of the plant being nutrient-starved, the better recommendation for you would be to alternate between water plus fert and water only. When your upside down cutting goes right side up and has roots, it'll be ready for feeding next year. Do not fertilize in fall and winter.
My pleasure !
If you just want photos without all the blather, please visit my Flickr gallery.
My location: Los Angeles, CA (Zone 10b)
My location: Los Angeles, CA (Zone 10b)