Living in the northern area, unlike you lucky southern folk, I am already thinking of wintering my cactus and other plants. I know cactus need a rest period, but I will supplement light in the fall and spring when it is still not warm enough out for my plants to get that little extra growth from them.
Along those lines, I thought I'd post a link to a good article about lighting basics I found usefull. http://bonsaichat.org/articles/lighting_primer.htm
I am going to assemble some shelves, each with a florescent fixture above and perhaps some reflective panels on three sides. I found it interesting how fast the light drops off as the square of the distance.
What do you think?
Mark
Indoor Lighting
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Lighting
Hi Mark,
I am not sure why you are taking your cacti indoors? is it because of lack of light (short days?) or lack of warmth, cold nights?
Obviously depending on what species of plants you have, if the temp. is dropping below 50f. consistently, they will need protection of some sort.
If like me you need to provide some sort of heat for the plants between early November and mid-April taking them inside is a good idea. I am not too sure what you will achieve with the lighting, unless the situation where you are keeping the plants is very poorly lit. During their rest period cacti can manage on reasonable light, it does not have to be too bright.
I have used flourescent lights in the past, but not for cacti, and before I had a conservatory built. The type used to make plants grow in fish tanks (gro-lux or similar), are excellent, but not particularly cheap. Normal tungsten lighting is virtually useless, but will give some warmth.
If you think this will help you give it a try. I would be interested to hear the results. But don't lay out too much money until your sure it is going to a benefit to the plants.
Cheers
John
I am not sure why you are taking your cacti indoors? is it because of lack of light (short days?) or lack of warmth, cold nights?
Obviously depending on what species of plants you have, if the temp. is dropping below 50f. consistently, they will need protection of some sort.
If like me you need to provide some sort of heat for the plants between early November and mid-April taking them inside is a good idea. I am not too sure what you will achieve with the lighting, unless the situation where you are keeping the plants is very poorly lit. During their rest period cacti can manage on reasonable light, it does not have to be too bright.
I have used flourescent lights in the past, but not for cacti, and before I had a conservatory built. The type used to make plants grow in fish tanks (gro-lux or similar), are excellent, but not particularly cheap. Normal tungsten lighting is virtually useless, but will give some warmth.
If you think this will help you give it a try. I would be interested to hear the results. But don't lay out too much money until your sure it is going to a benefit to the plants.
Cheers
John
Last edited by templegatejohn on Fri May 20, 2005 12:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Hey Mark,
Yeah I leave a little south of ya but I'm also confused about your lighting project. Any cactus that I bring in to protect from the elements (winter) recieve only moderate lighting from south or southeastern window ( not direct sunlight).
I'm believing maybe your being a little to protctive about your cactus.
Mine recieve moderate light and room temperature around 60/65 degrees and do quite well.
Just 2 cents worth from a newbie, take it for what it's worth
Bill
Yeah I leave a little south of ya but I'm also confused about your lighting project. Any cactus that I bring in to protect from the elements (winter) recieve only moderate lighting from south or southeastern window ( not direct sunlight).
I'm believing maybe your being a little to protctive about your cactus.
Mine recieve moderate light and room temperature around 60/65 degrees and do quite well.
Just 2 cents worth from a newbie, take it for what it's worth
Bill
I guess I should have expained a little futher. I live in a house with very poor natural lighting. I only have one south facing window that I can put plants in. Our spring and falls have very cool (below 50'F) nights (especially this spring) so their winter would be very long indeed. I supplement their light in the spring & fall to extend their growing season. I figure about 3 months of rest would be sufficient to "winter" my cactus. Maybe that is wrong?
I also have to provide supplemental lighting for my tropical bonsai I am attempting to raise so I will just make sure I have some additional shelves for my cactus.
Mark
I also have to provide supplemental lighting for my tropical bonsai I am attempting to raise so I will just make sure I have some additional shelves for my cactus.
Mark
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- Posts: 1198
- Joined: Wed Sep 01, 2004 2:57 pm
- Location: Leeds, England
Indoor Lighting
Hi Mark,
What you have said about poor light in the house changes the situation regarding your additional lighting and will probably benefit your cacti to some extent. I think you can only be congratuated for trying to give your plants the best treatment you can.
I would however be careful about bringing your cacti into growth too quickly. Many of the Rebutias, Sulcorebutias etc. need a good winter rest in quite cool and perfectly dry conditions to facilitate their ability to flower the following year.
Others like Melocactus and Discocactus and many of the other "forest" or epyphite cacti need to be kept ticking over with small doses of water and a temp. no less than 60f.
Try to find out as much as you can (which I am sure you are doing), about your own cacti, or ask on the forum. This will give you a good indication of what is the best treatment for each individual.
As I said in a previous post on the forum (that I have not been able to find), some growers in Europe take their plants out of the pots at the end of October wrap them in newspaper and keep them in the cellar or similar place. Bringing them out and repotting them in Spring and they come to no harm. I would not recommend this, but it must work otherwise they wouldn't do it.
What you have said about poor light in the house changes the situation regarding your additional lighting and will probably benefit your cacti to some extent. I think you can only be congratuated for trying to give your plants the best treatment you can.
I would however be careful about bringing your cacti into growth too quickly. Many of the Rebutias, Sulcorebutias etc. need a good winter rest in quite cool and perfectly dry conditions to facilitate their ability to flower the following year.
Others like Melocactus and Discocactus and many of the other "forest" or epyphite cacti need to be kept ticking over with small doses of water and a temp. no less than 60f.
Try to find out as much as you can (which I am sure you are doing), about your own cacti, or ask on the forum. This will give you a good indication of what is the best treatment for each individual.
As I said in a previous post on the forum (that I have not been able to find), some growers in Europe take their plants out of the pots at the end of October wrap them in newspaper and keep them in the cellar or similar place. Bringing them out and repotting them in Spring and they come to no harm. I would not recommend this, but it must work otherwise they wouldn't do it.
Nebraska reporting in here. We tried some lighting last winter on a few plants. Four lights that hold four bulbs that are four feet long fluorescent and are designed for growing plants, Agrosun bulbs. I do this because my collection is growing larger and I'm trying to replicate light/temp of the winter season.
Results were fair this past winter. I did have some elongation due to certain types being too far from the light. Sulcrorebutia and rebutia didn't like it much and none flowered as of this time. Echinocereus, ferocactus, copiapoa, and mams didn't seem to notice, or handled it well. I'm not having the flowers that I have had in previous years this season tho, but I blame that on too high of temperatures at times.
Past years I have wintered my plants in a garage that stays around 45F degrees even in a Nebraska blizzard. Results were very good compared to wintering in my house. Cacti flowered better and were much faster growing earlier in the season. Having just moved last year, my new garage doesn't stay that warm, therefore I'm experimenting as well.
Many of my larger plants, let's say in a 7" pot or better recieve what I refer to as the dungeon treatment. Dark room, kept no higher than 60F degrees, with no outside light, for around 3-4 months with zero water. Agaves, large mams, echinocereus, echinocactus, oreocereus and espostoa all respond well to this winterization. Once I'm ready to start bringing them out of winter conditions I place them around my house interior and water lightly, not enough to flood the pot, just a light watering. As our weather permits I start letting them sit outdoors in shade and overnight them in my garage to avoid low night temperatures.
I believe temperature is key, gotta keep it chilly especially at night. Supplemental lighting must be close, but not too close to burn or scorch the plants. Lighting periods should be short I'm guessing, around 8 hours.
Results were fair this past winter. I did have some elongation due to certain types being too far from the light. Sulcrorebutia and rebutia didn't like it much and none flowered as of this time. Echinocereus, ferocactus, copiapoa, and mams didn't seem to notice, or handled it well. I'm not having the flowers that I have had in previous years this season tho, but I blame that on too high of temperatures at times.
Past years I have wintered my plants in a garage that stays around 45F degrees even in a Nebraska blizzard. Results were very good compared to wintering in my house. Cacti flowered better and were much faster growing earlier in the season. Having just moved last year, my new garage doesn't stay that warm, therefore I'm experimenting as well.
Many of my larger plants, let's say in a 7" pot or better recieve what I refer to as the dungeon treatment. Dark room, kept no higher than 60F degrees, with no outside light, for around 3-4 months with zero water. Agaves, large mams, echinocereus, echinocactus, oreocereus and espostoa all respond well to this winterization. Once I'm ready to start bringing them out of winter conditions I place them around my house interior and water lightly, not enough to flood the pot, just a light watering. As our weather permits I start letting them sit outdoors in shade and overnight them in my garage to avoid low night temperatures.
I believe temperature is key, gotta keep it chilly especially at night. Supplemental lighting must be close, but not too close to burn or scorch the plants. Lighting periods should be short I'm guessing, around 8 hours.