fma. caespitosa seeds are much less common because the plants take ages to reach flowering size due to their excessive production of offsets, using up all the plant's energy. only larger heads produce flowers and seed.
my plant here would probably still not be flowering size had i not removed the tiny offsets when they first appeared:
the plant itself, at least in Australia, is much commoner than a 'normal' l. williamsii... its actually quite hard to find a normal one. by far the commonest form of lophophora here. this plant is usually propagated vegatively by cuttings.
when i pinch off the small ones i pinch them before they have even fully come out of the mother, there is nothing to root or graft, i jsut basically damage it where they start to come out, they are still only a few mm tops. leaves less of a scar in the future. i do graft and root some, usually in the 2cm range or larger
i jsut did some pereskiopsis grafts though, they were mostly around 1/2 cm.
Stephen Robert Irwin: 22 February 1962 – 4 September 2006. Rest In Peace.
I tried both, both failed they dry out before they can root. and i need to work on my grafting skill, although i recently got two Rebutia heliosa fma 'melanistic' to take on hylocereus and myrtillocactus...they were going ballistic up until about 2 weeks ago when the cooler weather set in for Autumn/winter.
I tried my first graft today with a small L. Williamsii seedling onto a Peresk. I'm afraid there wasn't eneough sap on the root stock. I did the cut and graft real quick, in about 5 seconds. Is there any way you can tell if the graft worked or not the first day or so?
I've been going through the grafting post here. Is it true if the graft doesn't take the seedling will shrivel up and die within the first day or so? If thats the case it's looking good so far.
Yeh, I read your thing on using sap from the leaf. Unfortunatly it to late. It's been about a 1 1/2 days and I just checked it when I took of the top plastic bag to spray it and it looks fine. I did the graft really quick. It might of been a little dry because it's been kind of cold out here the last couple weeks so new growth has been at a minimum.
I lined up the root stock and scion just like in your chart. I'm hoping if if it was a little dry that a good line up and high humidity will make the chances much higher for the 2 to join. If so I'm gonna use the other one next week.
Here's a pic. Sorry for the poor focus quality. I'm not to good with my camera yet, but it gives you an idea on how the graft is taking. My 3cm L. Cecipitosa should be here soon and My T Panchanoi has just begun rooting so I hope to use the first section of your graft guide with that. After I get it rooted as well. Or do you think grafting to a T. Peruvianus would be better since they are suppose to grow quicker?
I think the graft is taking ok. It's starting to turn a little red. Not much but a bit. I'm thinking of moving it to a window sill or outside somewhere in the shade. My HPS is horrible with my young cactus seedlings. It turn them red to quick no matter how far I move them from the light.
leave it at least a week befor emoving it outside, you want to take it out of humidity a little slow. maybe just put it somewhere beside your growing table/area for a bit then move to window then outside shade then full sun.
Stephen Robert Irwin: 22 February 1962 – 4 September 2006. Rest In Peace.
I just cut the other head from the Peresk. I grafted another Loph Williamsii to it. I watered it before cutting the rootstock. This time I could tell for sure it was nice and juicy. Maybe a little to juicy.
They both are looking as if they are doing fine. I would think if after the 3rd or 4th day if the Loph seedling hasn't shriveled up and died that it should have taken alright to the root stock. I've got my fingers crossed.
I'm trying to use Tissue paper as shade cloth under my HPS lights. I'm hoping that will allow eneough light without burning the seedlings.
they dry out before they can root. and i need to work on my grafting skill, although i recently got two Rebutia heliosa fma 'melanistic' to take on hylocereus and myrtillocactus...they were going ballistic up until about 2 weeks ago when the cooler weather set in for Autumn/winter.
later in the year this "guide" may be complete