Systemic insecticide
Systemic insecticide
After trying many other things, I've decided to start treating some of my plants with a systemic insecticide. I'm looking for recommendations of what to get. I'm preferably looking for a combo insecticide fungicide because an aggressive fungus has been spreading through my plants as well
I went to Lowe's today and found one I liked, but in addition to insecticide and fungicide it had fertilizer. It said it was formulated for roses and I was worried it would be too much fertilizer for cacti
I'm looking for people's suggestions/favorite systemics, and is my judgement it would be too much fertilizer correct?
I went to Lowe's today and found one I liked, but in addition to insecticide and fungicide it had fertilizer. It said it was formulated for roses and I was worried it would be too much fertilizer for cacti
I'm looking for people's suggestions/favorite systemics, and is my judgement it would be too much fertilizer correct?
- Attachments
-
- This is the one I looked at
- 20200123_000306-993x741.jpg (62.9 KiB) Viewed 3349 times
Los Angeles, California (USA)
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
- mmcavall
- Posts: 1454
- Joined: Tue May 17, 2016 11:54 pm
- Location: São Carlos - SP, Southeast Brazil, Cerrado Region
Re: Systemic insecticide
I use Imidacloprid (Provado 200 Bater). Once or twice a year it's sufficient.
I wouldn't use this one with fertilizer. Try to find it pure.
I wouldn't use this one with fertilizer. Try to find it pure.
- ElieEstephane
- Posts: 2909
- Joined: Tue Dec 13, 2016 12:10 am
- Location: Lebanon (zone 11a)
Re: Systemic insecticide
It's best to treat them all otherwise they'll hide from plant to plant.
I've only used acetamiprid with amazing and veey fast results but i'm not sure about its legal status in the US. As Mercelo recommends, imidacloprid is great too
There are more cacti in heaven and earth, Horatio, than are dreamt of in your philosophy.
One of the few cactus lovers in Lebanon (zone 11a)
One of the few cactus lovers in Lebanon (zone 11a)
Re: Systemic insecticide
First thing to remember is Systemic Insecticides only work in the growing season, since they requite actively growing roots to absorb them. In winter, or when plants are not growing, use a contact insecticide. Many contact insecticides can be obtained in the ready mixed "Bug Gun" type of spray dispensers that are ideal for use both in and out of the growing season.
If your plants are growing I would not think the fertiliser would hurt as at 9-14-9 it is lower in nitrogen and obviously intended to promote flowering in roses. I often use fertilisers lower in nitrogen for cacti since they are slower growers than ordinary plants therefore don't need so much nitrogen. Flower or fruit fertilisers are ideal such as those intended for roses or tomatoes.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/orname ... plants.htm
In the EU, because of their impact on bees some amateur products have been banned, however they are OK for use in the greenhouse where few bees get in. But as you will always get some irresponsible gardener using them recklessly out in the garden the EU just blanket bans them for amateur use. Therefore if they are still available in your country use them responsibly since we all depend on bees fertilising our farmers crops to produce much of the food we eat and bee numbers have been declining alarmingly in many countries due to over use of some insecticides outdoors.
Also remember that systemic insecticides do not kill bug eggs and after a time they dilute in the plants sap. Therefore unless it says so on the information one application per year may not be enough to kill the bugs that hatch out later in the year. But always read the instructions since over use can often produce resistant strains of bugs which are then hard to kill. Meaning vary your types of insecticide occasionally rather than always using the same one in order to kill those becoming resistant to any particular one.
Because an insecticide or a fungicide says a certain mixture will be effective, making it twice as strong will not usually kill more bugs or fungus but probably burn your plant or disfigure it, therefore stick to the manufacturers proportions.
https://succulent-plant.com/pests.html
As said, provided bees are not likely to visit the flowers things like Imidacloprid are OK to use.
"Imidacloprid: Imidacloprid seems to be the most effective systemic pesticide for succulents, but it’s pretty nasty stuff! We really don’t recommend using this unless you REALLY need to, because it’s known to cause major harm to bees and bee colonies. This chemical is found in some products from brands like Bayer and Merit. It usually comes in little granules that you dilute in water, then use to water and spray your plants."
If your plants are growing I would not think the fertiliser would hurt as at 9-14-9 it is lower in nitrogen and obviously intended to promote flowering in roses. I often use fertilisers lower in nitrogen for cacti since they are slower growers than ordinary plants therefore don't need so much nitrogen. Flower or fruit fertilisers are ideal such as those intended for roses or tomatoes.
https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/orname ... plants.htm
In the EU, because of their impact on bees some amateur products have been banned, however they are OK for use in the greenhouse where few bees get in. But as you will always get some irresponsible gardener using them recklessly out in the garden the EU just blanket bans them for amateur use. Therefore if they are still available in your country use them responsibly since we all depend on bees fertilising our farmers crops to produce much of the food we eat and bee numbers have been declining alarmingly in many countries due to over use of some insecticides outdoors.
Also remember that systemic insecticides do not kill bug eggs and after a time they dilute in the plants sap. Therefore unless it says so on the information one application per year may not be enough to kill the bugs that hatch out later in the year. But always read the instructions since over use can often produce resistant strains of bugs which are then hard to kill. Meaning vary your types of insecticide occasionally rather than always using the same one in order to kill those becoming resistant to any particular one.
Because an insecticide or a fungicide says a certain mixture will be effective, making it twice as strong will not usually kill more bugs or fungus but probably burn your plant or disfigure it, therefore stick to the manufacturers proportions.
https://succulent-plant.com/pests.html
As said, provided bees are not likely to visit the flowers things like Imidacloprid are OK to use.
"Imidacloprid: Imidacloprid seems to be the most effective systemic pesticide for succulents, but it’s pretty nasty stuff! We really don’t recommend using this unless you REALLY need to, because it’s known to cause major harm to bees and bee colonies. This chemical is found in some products from brands like Bayer and Merit. It usually comes in little granules that you dilute in water, then use to water and spray your plants."
-
- Posts: 248
- Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2018 3:09 pm
- Location: Ottawa - Canada
- Contact:
Re: Systemic insecticide
Any recommendations for finding a systemic insecticide that is legal to import to Canada? I cannot find one on any garden shelf and the typical Amazon.ca search results are pretty bare.
- Steve Johnson
- Posts: 4593
- Joined: Thu Nov 03, 2011 4:44 am
- Location: Los Angeles, CA (Zone 10b)
Re: Systemic insecticide
Have you seen this yet?Shane wrote: ↑Thu Jan 23, 2020 8:05 amAfter trying many other things, I've decided to start treating some of my plants with a systemic insecticide. I'm looking for recommendations of what to get. I'm preferably looking for a combo insecticide fungicide because an aggressive fungus has been spreading through my plants as well
I went to Lowe's today and found one I liked, but in addition to insecticide and fungicide it had fertilizer. It said it was formulated for roses and I was worried it would be too much fertilizer for cacti
I'm looking for people's suggestions/favorite systemics, and is my judgement it would be too much fertilizer correct?
http://www.cactiguide.com/forum/viewtop ... 24&t=42129
I realize there's a lot of detail to go through, but this is the sum total of everything I've learned with regard to mealies, armored scale, and pest mites. If you scroll down to the "Long-term solution for all types of scale insect" section, that gives you the info on my systemic of choice. By the way -- Bayer Advanced is now Bio Advanced, so look for the Bio Advanced 3-in-1. Besides the Imidacloprid, 3-in-1 also contains a fungicide, although I don't know if fungicides work systemically or as a transdermal spray. If you can't find the product at Lowe's, you certainly can at Armstrong Garden Center. Their Santa Monica and Westchester locations aren't all that far from you.
If you just want photos without all the blather, please visit my Flickr gallery.
My location: Los Angeles, CA (Zone 10b)
My location: Los Angeles, CA (Zone 10b)
Re: Systemic insecticide
Thanks for all the responses everyone!
Again, thanks for the responses everyone. I think I am going to go with the Bayer (Bio Advanced) 3 in 1. I like that it has fungicide too. And I think occasional weak fertilizing would be good for my cacti
I have a few isolated collections around yard. The one with all my favorites is getting 100% treated, but the other main collection is easy to grow succulents and I don't think it's worth the hassle of treating those. Everything is outside, so any treated plants that flower will need to be covered. I want to limit how many I'll need to do this with. I agree with the principle of not untreated plants become a reservoir for pests. I'm just trying to figure out how to do this without doing tons of workIt's best to treat them all otherwise they'll hide from plant to plant
I'm not sure either, and I can't find anything that says one way or another. If anyone knows for sure please let me knowI've only used acetamiprid with amazing and veey fast results but i'm not sure about its legal status in the US
As I read this I realize I know almost nothing about fertilizers. But it's good to know this stuff would be fine for cacti. That was my main concernIf your plants are growing I would not think the fertiliser would hurt as at 9-14-9 it is lower in nitrogen and obviously intended to promote flowering in roses. I often use fertilisers lower in nitrogen for cacti since they are slower growers than ordinary plants therefore don't need so much nitrogen
I'm planning to make covers out of old window screen to cover my plants when they're in bloom so bees don't get at them. I definitely don't want to kill any bees. I plan to use the pesticide in strict adherence to the label's instructions. That's actually why I resisted systemics for so long; I figured it would be a lot of work to use them safelyhowever they are OK for use in the greenhouse where few bees get in
Yes I did. Though there's a lot of info and I may not have absorbed it all . I also browsed the older posts about systemics too. I learned a lot from that topic, including that flat mites have visited my plants at some point in the past (I assumed the marks were fungus scars or something). I think the one you use is the exact same product I found at Lowe's. Which is good to hear
I think they do, because the label doesn't suggest spaying it onto plantsalthough I don't know if fungicides works systemically
Armstrong's has a generally good selection, but every time I've gone there looking for something specific they haven't had it . In other news I've moved and I actually live close to Fairfax and Pico now. Venice was just too costly, plus I have a real yard at my new placef you can't find the product at Lowe's, you certainly can at Armstrong Garden Center. Their Santa Monica and Westchester locations aren't all that far from you
Again, thanks for the responses everyone. I think I am going to go with the Bayer (Bio Advanced) 3 in 1. I like that it has fungicide too. And I think occasional weak fertilizing would be good for my cacti
Los Angeles, California (USA)
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Re: Systemic insecticide
We do have systemic fungicides now, though they were introduced quite a while after systemic insecticides. The same cautions apply as with insecticides in avoiding building up resistant strains of fungus through over use of the same chemical.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fungicide
https://plantpathology.ca.uky.edu/files/ppfs-gen-07.pdf
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fungicide
https://plantpathology.ca.uky.edu/files/ppfs-gen-07.pdf
Re: Systemic insecticide
I don't think there are any (legal) systemic insecticides available in the EU anymore (for private/hobby use) - at least not based on neonicotinoids. Please give examples if you know any.
-
- Posts: 248
- Joined: Thu Mar 01, 2018 3:09 pm
- Location: Ottawa - Canada
- Contact:
Re: Systemic insecticide
I believe us Canadians have the same restrictions.
Re: Systemic insecticide
Yes: Canadians are overprotective regarding this matter, at least I haven't seen any to be sold in retail stores. I guess we should leave our cacti to survive through natural selection.Pereskiopsisdotcom wrote: ↑Fri Jan 24, 2020 2:04 pmI believe us Canadians have the same restrictions.
What pest are you fighting against?
If your cacti mess in your job just forget about the job.
°C = (°F - 32)/1.8
°C = (°F - 32)/1.8
Re: Systemic insecticide
I like that neonicotinoids are (so far) still legal in the US, but I'm not sure whether should be. Maybe they have too much destructive power to let just anyone have. Though I'm sure the effects of commercial agriculture application vastly dwarf any effects from individual users...
Also for the fungus part, there's some sort of aggressive orange fungus spreading through my plants right now. I'm fighting it with sulfur currently, and I hope the systemic finishes it off/ keeps it from coming back
Mealybugs mostly, and some random scales that I've seen occasionally but haven't done much damage (yet) . There are aphids too right now, but I expect to have them controlled by the time the systemic would kick in
Also for the fungus part, there's some sort of aggressive orange fungus spreading through my plants right now. I'm fighting it with sulfur currently, and I hope the systemic finishes it off/ keeps it from coming back
Los Angeles, California (USA)
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Re: Systemic insecticide
Not all fungi are dangerous to our plants Shane. If you use organic materials in your compost some will often grow on that. A picture of your fungus might help.
https://dengarden.com/gardening/What-Is ... n-My-Mulch
https://unusualseeds.net/fungal-infecti ... reat-them/
We do occasionally get the yellow toadstools growing in the cactus bed or in our pots, but it feeds on any rotting organic material in the soil and not the cactus, though they do look unsightly.
https://dengarden.com/gardening/What-Is ... n-My-Mulch
https://unusualseeds.net/fungal-infecti ... reat-them/
We do occasionally get the yellow toadstools growing in the cactus bed or in our pots, but it feeds on any rotting organic material in the soil and not the cactus, though they do look unsightly.
Re: Systemic insecticide
It's a orange and growing directly on the stems on my plants. It's done definite harm to some, but I'm not 100% sure it's all the same fungus. It looks like stuff I've heard called 'rust' before. (I wouldn't be nearly as concerned if it was around my plants rather than on them)DaveW wrote: ↑Sat Jan 25, 2020 12:00 pm Not all fungi are dangerous to our plants Shane. If you use organic materials in your compost some will often grow on that. A picture of your fungus might help.
[...]
We do occasionally get the yellow toadstools growing in the cactus bed or in our pots, but it feeds on any rotting organic material in the soil and not the cactus, though they do look unsightly.
The slime mold article (link) was very interesting. What a strange life form
Los Angeles, California (USA)
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Re: Systemic insecticide
I'll get a picture later today
Los Angeles, California (USA)
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction
Zone 10b (yearly minimum temperature 1-5° C)
Fishhook cacti are like cats, they only like to be petted in one direction