Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

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Shane
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Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

Post by Shane »

Part I: Introduction

I'd like to share some of my knowledge of Pereskiopsis cultivation and invite others to fill in the gaps in my knowledge. I know Pereskiopsis growing questions come up here from time to time (including me a few years ago). I'm hoping to make this into a comprehensive guide that might turn into a pinned post

Part II: Overview

Pereskiopsis is an unusual cactus genus whose main use in cultivation is as a graft stock. Pereskiopsis's atypical features include leaves, rapid growth, high resistance to rot, and long narrow stems. Its rapid growth rate and narrow diameter make it an excellent stock for seedlings

Part III: Pereskiopsis's origins

The genus Pereskiopsis originates from the tropical dry forests of Pacific Southern Mexico (see figure 1). These forests have two well differentiated seasons: wet and dry. Of the 20-80 in (50-200 cm) of rain that falls every year, less than 2 in (5 cm) fall in the dry season. The climate is warm, with no month's average temperature falling below 70°F (20°C). Pereskiopsis grows like crazy in the wet months, then goes dormant in the dry season, losing all its leaves

I'll also note here Pereskiopsis is one of about four genera of leafy cacti. Pereskia and Leuenbergeria are primitive cacti only distantly related to Pereskiopsis (see figure 2). Pereskiopsis was named for its resemblance to Pereskia (which at the time also included Leuenbergeria). Quiabentia is thought to be closely related to Pereskiopsis but its reputed slow growth makes it poorly suited for use as a graft stock

Part IV: Cultivation

Temperature
In my experience, the most critical condition for good Pereskiopsis growth is adequately high low temperatures. Low temperatures below about 60°F (15°C) drastically slow growth. Lows approaching 50°F (10°C) trigger dormancy (note the plants won't go completely dormant if you keep watering them, but they'll still stop growing and lose their leaves). I'm told they can withstand freezing temperatures a short time (<24 hours), but the soil needs to be dry. Letting your Pereskiopsis experience frost is not recommended

High temperatures don't seem to matter as much. We've gotten temps over 100°F (40°C) where I live and the plants haven't really been affected at all. If anything, they prefer hotter weather

Water
During its growth season, Pereskiopsis really can't be overwatered. I don't ever let the top of its soil dry out. During dormancy, water is only necessary when the stems begin to shrivel. In my experience, watering during dormancy isn't harmful. However, my experience only goes down to the high 40s F (the high single digits C)

Light
I grow my Pereskiopsis in areas that get full sun for at least part of the day. I've never had any get injured from too much sun. They become etiolated when grown in shade (~500 fc/5k lux). I don't have experience growing these plants under lights, but I'd suggest an intensity at least 1k fc (11k lux) to ensure good growth

Pereskiopsis get 12 +/- 1 hours of sunlight a day in habitat. They don't seem to mind longer days however. Some people have gotten good results with up to 16 hours under lights

Soil
I use regular potting soil. Any soil that isn't too dense and doesn't dry out too easily will work

Fertilizer
I don't use fertilizer. I'd be interested in hearing people's experiences with fertilizing and whether it's worth it

Pests and problems
Loss of leaves:
Aphids can cause quite a bit of damage to Pereskiopsis. Mites can also damage the leaves, making them smaller and unhealthy looking. They mostly attack growing tips. See figures 3 and 4 for examples of mite damage to Pereskiopsis. I'm sure mealybugs can too but I've never had to deal with them thankfully. Sometimes slugs eat the leaves as well. A discussion of insect pests can be found here: http://cactiguide.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=42129
Underwatering also causes leaf wilt/death (are you remembering to keep the soil wet?). Temperatures under 60°F (15°C) cause leaf death too. This is natural and not pathological

Slow growth:
Is caused by night temperatures under 60°F (15°C) or inadequate watering

Rot:
I've only ever seen rot on Pereskiopsis plants that are already very unhealthy. I've never seen an otherwise healthy plant rot. If your plants are rotting, make sure you're providing appropriate growing conditions

Seasonal cycle (applies to outdoor growing in my climate)
Summer (low temps 60°F (15°C) or above): grows freely
Fall (lows 50ish-60°F or 10-15°C): growth slows when lows go below 60°F (15°C). Lower leaves begin to die. Weak or damaged branches may start to die. Plants look generally shabby
Winter (lows 50°F (10°C) or lower): Plans lose most to all leaves. Growth ceases. Water isn't necessary unless the plants become very shriveled. Extra watering doesn't seem to be harmful
Spring (increasing low temps): A couple weeks to a month before new stem growth starts, plants begin growing new spines. Growth slowly restarts as nightly lows increase. Then, before you know it, they start growing like crazy

Part V: Propagation

Note: Propagation should take place in Pereskiopsis's growth temperatures (60°F (15°C) and up)

To propagate Pereskiopsis, take a stem cutting from an established plant and plant it .5-.75 in (1-2 cm) deep in moist soil. Do not let the cut dry, and do not remove the leaves from the bottom of the stem*. Any size of cutting will work, but cuttings under about 3 in (8 cm) will take a while to establish themselves. Keep the soil damp and don't let it get too much sun before it's rooted (i.e. filtered sun or bright shade). Rooting takes around a week. I have not found that rooting hormone makes a difference. It's worth noting here that when you cut the top off of a stem, it usually responds by producing a couple of new stems (like many plants). Therefore, for maximum production, you should cut the tops off frequently to get as many branches growing as possible. You can also root cuttings in water then plant in soil with these same steps. I don't think there's a big difference except some people may find one more convenient than the other

There's also a mass propagation method that involves cutting the stem into a number of segments with one leaf each. The segments are planted horizontally with the leaves sticking up. I've never tried this, but I assume it works since Pereskiopsis roots so easily. This would be a good way to make a lot of plants, if somewhat slowly

*This is because the lowest few leaves usually die during rooting. If you remove the leaves from the part of the stem going into the soil, it'll just cause further up leaves to die

Part VI: Reviving cuttings you got in the mail

This is most people's first experience with Pereskiopsis, so I think it warrants its own section. Mailing is not kind to Pereskiopsis cuttings. They are typically shipped wrapped in dry newspaper and are pretty wilted and sad by the time they arrive (I think a better method would be to send them loosely wrapped in slightly damp paper towels, sealed in a bag. But Amazon/Ebay sellers are what they are). Plant them as described in the cuttings section, with these exceptions: use rooting hormone if you have it; use lightly wetted rather than saturated soil; be conservative with watering, wait for the top of the soil to dry before watering again. Watch for signs of rot, mailed Pereskiopsis is receptible to rot (this is the only time you have to worry about rot in these plants). Eventually they will root and produce new growth. Ease them into sun and more frequent watering

Part VII: Miscellaneous

Species
There are around 8 species in the genus Pereskiopsis. Cultivated plants are often sold under the name P. spathulata. Without seeing flowers, fruit or even mature stems it's difficult to know whether this is a correct identification. Some authors do not recognize P. spathulata at all. Given the scarce and sometimes questionable information out there, I suspect P. spathulata is an apocryphal name given to Pereskiopsis spp. in cultivation

Flowering
Pereskiopsis will not flower until it is quite large. Somewhere I read a stem length of 2+ meters is needed. Flowers are yellow, though Anderson alleges P. spathulata has red flowers, while also expressing some doubt about the validity of the species. I myself doubt any Pereskiopsis flowers a color other than yellow and have found no evidence to suggest otherwise. If you have a red flowered Pereskiopsis, I'd love to see a picture. Someday I hope to grow one of my P. "spathulata" large enough to see a flower. The anthers of at least one specie's flower are touch sensitive https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=88&v=Og ... e=youtu.be

Seed
I don't know whether Pereskiopsis spp. produce seeds. I was given some fruit and cuttings of P. Porteri(?) last year, and the fruits did not contain seeds. The fruit had a sweet but somewhat grassy flavor. It would make a nice cocktail garnish with the glochids removed

Glochids
In my experience, Pereskiopsis glochids are mostly large and easy to remove

Part VIII: Missing Information

There are some things I'd like to include here, but that I don't know much about. I'm hoping other members can fill me in on:
Indoor Pereskiopsis culture details
Hydroponic growing (there's some info on this thread http://cactiguide.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... 5&start=20)
Fertilizer
Anything else you feel should be here but isn't

Feel free to let me know what you think (or disagree with) in the comments

Part IX: References

https://cites.org/sites/default/files/e ... 14-P25.pdf
Everything preceded by I, me or my is from personal experience
Carbo contributed to Section IV. Thanks Carbo!
Pereskiopsisdotcom contributed information regarding low temperatures. Thanks Pereskiopsisdotcom!
Also thanks to One Windowsill for the pointers

Part X: Figures
Attachments
Figure 1; observed occurrences, potential habitat (green), protected areas (beige)
Figure 1; observed occurrences, potential habitat (green), protected areas (beige)
habitat map.png (287.76 KiB) Viewed 8107 times
Figure 2
Figure 2
Cactaceae subfamilies with Pereskiopsis.png (43.05 KiB) Viewed 8107 times
Figure 3; mite damage to Pereskiopsis, courtesy of PHcacti
Figure 3; mite damage to Pereskiopsis, courtesy of PHcacti
mites 3.jpg (25.19 KiB) Viewed 7881 times
Figure 3; mite damage to Pereskiopsis, courtesy of PHcacti
Figure 3; mite damage to Pereskiopsis, courtesy of PHcacti
mites 4.jpg (29.85 KiB) Viewed 7881 times
Last edited by Shane on Wed Jul 14, 2021 9:00 pm, edited 8 times in total.
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One Windowsill
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Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

Post by One Windowsill »

Have a look at the various locations for the species on POWO, the species list links to each species page.
http://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:l ... s:295200-2 Bolivia seems like a bit of an outlier.

Mention that it is unrelated to Pereskia, just named for looking like it. The glochids give away its position in the Opuntioideae.

The anthers are touch sensitive.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OgAa-haJsNQ

Have a degree sign to copy: ° Oh, you have one in your signature :D
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Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

Post by Carbo »

Temperature: Most critical factor, imo for peresk. however low temperatures only seem to slow or stop growth while it doesn't kill them unless it gets below 0C, I overwintered mine in a dark cold room where it frequently gets to 5C and below (but not below 0C) and they survived.

Water: If the soil is at least a bit airy and porous, it's nearly impossible to overwater. During winter dormancy you should only water minimally once the stems start to shrivel to keep them turgid, otherwise if they dry out too much they might not recover in spring.

Light: As Shane said, anything below 10k lux is not sufficient for normal growth. Intense light in the open sun encourages growth of nasty black spines.

Soil: Any. But to get optimal nice green and fast growth best to make sure the soil is at least a bit porous to allow more oxygen in the root zone. I did try hydroponic growing and it's 100% doable because I'm not the 1st one to try it, but I seem to have used wrong fertilizer.

Propagation: Only thing I'd add is that I use cuttings that have the top growth point tips, this gives me nice straight growth, and that I use rooting powder for faster rooting, but this is not necessary. How much faster the hormone ones root vs the ones without, is something I intend to find out in a little experiment in spring.

Problems: I had problems only with mites, which damage underside of leaves making them smaller and unhealthy looking, the mites mostly attack growing tips. I spray everything with acaricides as soon as I see any sign of them because they can spread very quickly and ruin your entire collection.

I put one cutting in a large pot and let it grow entire season, fertilizing frequently and it grew to 2m tall, hope I get at least 1 flower in spring...fingers crossed.
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Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

Post by Shane »

One Windowsill wrote: Thu Jan 07, 2021 1:16 am Have a look at the various locations for the species on POWO, the species list links to each species page.
http://powo.science.kew.org/taxon/urn:l ... s:295200-2 Bolivia seems like a bit of an outlier.
[...]
I added the degree symbol (I'm sure I inevitably forgot one or two somewhere though) and a bit about Pereskia, etc.

I'm not so sure about the distributions shown in your link though. Kew's only reference is from 1907(!) and it just doesn't look right
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Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

Post by Shane »

Thanks for the info, Carbo, in particular the part about mites
Temperature: Most critical factor, imo for peresk
Couldn't agree more
How much faster the hormone ones root vs the ones without, is something I intend to find out in a little experiment in spring
Looking forward to learning the results of your experiment
I put one cutting in a large pot and let it grow entire season, fertilizing frequently and it grew to 2m tall, hope I get at least 1 flower in spring...fingers crossed
Fingers crossed too!
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Shane
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Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

Post by Shane »

Carbo, do you have a picture of the mite infected Pereskiopsis? I'd love to add it
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Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

Post by One Windowsill »

Shane wrote: Tue Jan 12, 2021 2:04 am I'm not so sure about the distributions shown in your link though. Kew's only reference is from 1907(!) and it just doesn't look right
That reference is just for the genus name which was first validly published in 1907.

Here is that publication: https://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/pag ... 7/mode/1up

Tropicos has information on the distributions with references, see also under the Specimens tab for herbarium specimens: https://www.tropicos.org/name/Search?name=pereskiopsis
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Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

Post by Carbo »

Shane wrote: Tue Jan 12, 2021 3:03 am Carbo, do you have a picture of the mite infected Pereskiopsis? I'd love to add it
Unfortunately, no. The particular mites I had on them were very tiny, barely visible with a naked eye and white in color.
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Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

Post by Shane »

One Windowsill wrote: Tue Jan 12, 2021 9:26 am That reference is just for the genus name which was first validly published in 1907.

Here is that publication: https://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/pag ... 7/mode/1up

Tropicos has information on the distributions with references, see also under the Specimens tab for herbarium specimens: https://www.tropicos.org/name/Search?name=pereskiopsis
Oh I see. Tropicos is an interesting reference I didn't know about before. It seems like they were a bit more liberal than CITES was with their distributions and number of species. Either way, the genus is contained in the area around southern Mexico (tropicos did not list P. diguetii in Bolivia). I wish there was a way in Tropicos to see all the species locations of a genus in a single map, that would be interesting to see
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Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

Post by One Windowsill »

It doesn't distinguish between the species but the Specimen Heat Map is avaialable on the Specimens page.
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Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

Post by mikethecactusguy »

Mike The Cactus Guy
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Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

Post by Shane »

mikethecactusguy wrote: Tue May 25, 2021 11:00 pm Shane
Have you seen this site?
http://pereskiopsis.com/growing-cacti-from-cuttings/
I did I think a long time ago. I'd forgotten about it. I think it's by a forum member actually. There's a section specifically about growing Pereskiopsis
http://pereskiopsis.com/pereskiopsis/
It actually has a good amount about growing the plant indoors, which my guide lacks. There are a few differences in our guides. One is pereskiopsis.com recommends letting cuttings callous before planting, I don't. The other is the parts about avoiding root rot. I've never had root rot happen to any of mine and I'm not sure how that even would happen (maybe it's an indoor problem or something). Anyway it's a very good guide and it fills in some gaps in mine

I also have started to suspect recently that the minimum temperature isn't 60 but more like 55 or the low 50s. I may update that
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Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

Post by Pereskiopsisdotcom »

Shane wrote: Sat May 29, 2021 1:07 am
mikethecactusguy wrote: Tue May 25, 2021 11:00 pm Shane
Have you seen this site?
http://pereskiopsis.com/growing-cacti-from-cuttings/
I did I think a long time ago. I'd forgotten about it. I think it's by a forum member actually. There's a section specifically about growing Pereskiopsis
http://pereskiopsis.com/pereskiopsis/
It actually has a good amount about growing the plant indoors, which my guide lacks. There are a few differences in our guides. One is pereskiopsis.com recommends letting cuttings callous before planting, I don't. The other is the parts about avoiding root rot. I've never had root rot happen to any of mine and I'm not sure how that even would happen (maybe it's an indoor problem or something). Anyway it's a very good guide and it fills in some gaps in mine

I also have started to suspect recently that the minimum temperature isn't 60 but more like 55 or the low 50s. I may update that
First, thanks mikethecactusguy for the shootout!

I started that site probably more than 10 years ago as a growing guide and unfortunately have been so busy with life that I have not had a chance to update it. That said, I'm actually going to be doing it very soon. I have been accumulating a lot more information in the last few years and have a lot of notes to upload.

Shane, to touch on a few of your questions and points.

Yes, mine dealt exclusively indoors. As a Canadian, the outdoor season is limited and at the time I lived in an apartment so had no other choice but budget indoor lighting. Callousing was a reflection on the short and thin cuttings that were being sold here in Canada at the time. The same with root rot. I'm not sure if it was the genetics of the cuttings I was seeing that was making them sensitive or if I just lacked the skills at the time, but I had better success that way. Today, I root in water or just stick in any potting soil and they root fine.

Regarding temperatures, they can actually withstand freezing outdoor temperatures for short periods of time (just under 24 hours), but I don't recommend it. If the soil is too wet those temperatures will be fatal. They have also done fine for me at less than ideal temperatures but do pause growing. For example, I have brought in pots of 6-10 inch specimens that were snowed on hours early at temperatures in the 3-5C range with no ill effect. For comparison, the same was fatal to most of my Quiabentia species.

I have a lot to update such as my grafting techniques changing, state-of-the-art LED technology, soil, fertilizer, etc. If you would like to share some of your personal grow experiences and techniques, I would be happy to update them with credit to your findings. I would be happy to elaborate on anything specifically and update the website accordingly.
http://pereskiopsis.com

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Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

Post by DaveW »

Nice article Shane. I did once get down to a a piece of stem without leaves about one and a half inches long which I stuck vertically in the soil and it rooted and sprouted OK in 100% humidity conditions.

I found Pereskiopsis, unlike most cacti, like a "Turkish Bath" type atmosphere in order to grow quickly for grafting stocks. A warm enclosed propagator with condensation running down the cover (= 100% humidity) just suits them fine and they grow rapidly. Meaning after about a week they are getting to the top of the propagator so you can top them and root the tops down again and the remaining part will also throw out more side-shoots which can be detached and rooted down.

Use them in this soft new growth state for grafting seedlings on, but after a week you then bring them out into more normal cactus type atmosphere and harden them off after the graft has taken.
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Re: Pereskiopsis Growing Guide

Post by eamnav215 »

Shane wrote: Wed Jan 06, 2021 10:43 pm Part I: Introduction

I'd like to share some of my knowledge of Pereskiopsis cultivation and invite others to fill in the gaps in my knowledge. I know Pereskiopsis growing questions come up here from time to time (including me a few years ago). I'm hoping to make this into a comprehensive guide that might turn into a pinned post

Part II: Overview

Pereskiopsis is an unusual cactus genus whose main use in cultivation is as a graft stock. Pereskiopsis's atypical features include leaves, rapid growth, high resistance to rot, and narrow long stems. Its rapid growth rate and narrow diameter make it an excellent stock for seedlings

Part III: Pereskiopsis's origins

The genus Pereskiopsis originates from the tropical dry forests of Pacific Southern Mexico (see figure 1). These forests have two well differentiated seasons: wet and dry. Of the 20-80 in (50-200 cm) of rain that falls every year, less than 2 in (5 cm) fall in the dry season. The climate is warm, with no month's average temperature falling below 70°F (20°C). Pereskiopsis grows like crazy in the wet months, then goes dormant in the dry season, losing all its leaves

I'll also note here Pereskiopsis is one of about four genera of leafy cacti. Pereskia and Leuenbergeria are primitive cacti only distantly related to Pereskiopsis (see figure 2). Pereskiopsis was named for its resemblance to Pereskia (which at the time also included Leuenbergeria). Quiabentia is thought to be closely related to Pereskiopsis but its reputed slow growth makes it poorly suited for use as a graft stock

Part IV: Cultivation

Temperature
In my experience, the most critical condition for good Pereskiopsis growth is adequately high low temperatures. Low temperatures below 60°F (15°C) drastically slow growth. Lows approaching 50°F (10°C) trigger dormancy (note the plants won't go completely dormant if you keep watering them, but they'll still stop growing and lose their leaves)

High temperatures don't seem to matter as much. We've gotten temps over 100°F (40°C) where I live and the plants haven't really been affected at all

Water
During its growth season, Pereskiopsis really can't be overwatered. I don't ever let the top of its soil dry out. During dormancy, water is only necessary when the stems begin to shrivel. In my experience, watering during dormancy isn't harmful. However, my experience only goes down to the high 40s F (the high single digits C)

Light
I grow my Pereskiopsis in areas that get full sun for at least part of the day. I've never had any get injured from too much sun. They become etiolated when grown in shade (~500 fc/5k lux). I don't have experience growing these plants under lights, but I'd suggest an intensity at least 1k fc (11k lux) to ensure good growth

Pereskiopsis get 12 +/- 1 hours of sunlight a day in habitat. They don't seem to mind longer days however. Some people have gotten good results with up to 16 hours under lights

Soil
I use regular potting soil. Any soil that isn't too dense and doesn't dry out too easily will work

Fertilizer
I don't use fertilizer. I'd be interested in hearing people's experiences with fertilizing and whether it's worth it

Pests and problems
Loss of leaves:
Aphids can cause quite a bit of damage to Pereskiopsis. Mites can also damage the leaves, making them smaller and unhealthy looking. They mostly attack growing tips. See figures 3 and 4 for examples of mite damage to Pereskiopsis. I'm sure mealybugs can too but I've never had to deal with them thankfully. Sometimes slugs eat the leaves as well. A discussion of insect pests can be found here: http://cactiguide.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=42129
Underwatering also causes leaf wilt/death (are you remembering to keep the soil wet?). Temperatures under 60°F (15°C) cause leaf death too. This is natural and not pathological

Slow growth:
Is caused by night temperatures under 60°F (15°C)

Rot:
I've only ever seen rot on Pereskiopsis plants that are already very unhealthy. I've never seen an otherwise healthy plant rot. If your plants are rotting, make sure you're providing appropriate growing conditions

Seasonal cycle (applies to outdoor growing)
Summer (low temps 60°F (15°C) or above): grows freely
Fall (lows 50ish-60°F or 10-15°C): growth slows when lows go below 60°F (15°C). Lower leaves begin to die. Weak or damaged branches may start to die. Plants look generally shabby
Winter (lows 50°F (10°C) or lower): Plans lose most to all leaves. Growth ceases. Water isn't necessary unless the plants become very shriveled. Extra watering doesn't seem to be harmful
Spring (increasing low temps): A couple weeks to a month before new stem growth starts, plants begin growing new spines. Growth slowly restarts as nightly lows increase. Then, before you know it, they start growing like crazy

Part V: Propagation

Note: Propagation should take place in Pereskiopsis's "growth temperatures" (60°F (15°C) and up)

To propagate Pereskiopsis, take a stem cutting from an established plant and plant it .5-.75 in (1-2 cm) deep in moist soil. Do not let the cut dry, and do not remove the leaves from the bottom of the stem*. Any size of cutting will work, but cuttings under about 3 in (8 cm) will take a while to establish themselves. Keep the soil damp and don't let it get too much sun before it's rooted (i.e. filtered sun or bright shade). Rooting takes around a week. I have not found that rooting hormone makes a difference. It's worth noting here that when you cut the top off of a stem, it usually responds by producing a couple of new stems (like many plants). Therefore, for maximum production, you should cut the tops off frequently to get as many branches growing as possible

There's also a mass propagation method that involves cutting the stem into a number of segments with one leaf each. The segments are planted horizontally with the leaves sticking up. I've never tried this, but I assume it works since Pereskiopsis roots so easily. This would be a good way to make a lot of plants, if somewhat slowly

*This is because the lowest few leaves usually die during rooting. If you remove the leaves from the part of the stem going into the soil, it'll just cause further up leaves to die

Part VI: Reviving cuttings you got in the mail

This is most people's first experience with Pereskiopsis, so I think it warrants its own section. Mailing is not kind to Pereskiopsis cuttings. They are typically shipped wrapped in dry newspaper and are pretty wilted and sad by the time they arrive (I think a better method would be to send them loosely wrapped in slightly damp paper towels, sealed in a bag. But Amazon/Ebay sellers are what they are). Plant them as described in the cuttings section, with these exceptions: use rooting hormone if you have it, they need all the help they can get; use lightly wetted rather than saturated soil; be conservative with watering, wait for the top of the soil to dry before watering again. Watch for signs of rot, mailed Pereskiopsis is receptible to rot (this is the only time you have to worry about rot in these plants). Eventually they will root and produce new growth. Ease them into sun and more frequent watering

Part VII: Miscellaneous

Species
There are around 8 species in the genus Pereskiopsis. Cultivated plants are often sold under the name P. spathulata. Without seeing flowers, fruit or even mature stems it's difficult to know whether this is a correct identification. Some authors do not recognize P. spathulata at all. Given the scarce and sometimes questionable information out there, I suspect P. spathulata is an apocryphal name given to Pereskiopsis spp. in cultivation

Flowering
Pereskiopsis will not flower until it is quite large. Somewhere I read a stem length of 2+ meters is needed. Flowers are yellow, though Anderson alleges P. spathulata has red flowers, while also expressing some doubt about the validity of the species. I myself doubt any Pereskiopsis flowers a color other than yellow and have found no evidence to suggest otherwise. If you have a red flowered Pereskiopsis, I'd love to see a picture. Someday I hope to grow one of my P. "spathulata" large enough to see a flower. The anthers of at least one specie's flower are touch sensitive https://www.youtube.com/watch?t=88&v=Og ... e=youtu.be

Seed
I don't know whether Pereskiopsis spp. produce seeds. I was given some fruit and cuttings of P. Porteri last year, and the fruits did not contain seeds. The fruit had a sweet but somewhat grassy flavor. It would make a nice cocktail garnish with the glochids removed

Glochids
In my experience, Pereskiopsis glochids are mostly large and easy to remove

Part VIII: Missing Information

There are some things I'd like to include here, but that I don't know much about. I'm hoping other members can fill me in on:
Indoor Pereskiopsis culture details
Hydroponic growing (there's some info on this thread http://cactiguide.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... 5&start=20)
Fertilizer
Anything else you feel should be here but isn't

Feel free to let me know what you think (or disagree with) in the comments

Part IX: References

https://cites.org/sites/default/files/e ... 14-P25.pdf
Everything preceded by I, me or my is from personal experience
Carbo contributed to Section IV. Thanks Carbo!
Also thanks to One Windowsill for the pointers

Part X: Figures
Could I translate this article to spanish?
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