insecticide
insecticide
perhaps a silly question, but is it possible to make an insecticide out of euphorb milk? I figured it might work, but perhaps damage plants..
yes, nicotine might work very well, but is very hard to come by. I don't know if this is true but someone told me I can make a nicotine insecticide myself by putting a pack of rolling tobacco with a pot of sambal in water, leaving it for 24 hours after which the water can be used for this, true or false?
I don't know if it is true, but I sure wouldn't go anywhere near a stew like that!StrUktO wrote:yes, nicotine might work very well, but is very hard to come by. I don't know if this is true but someone told me I can make a nicotine insecticide myself by putting a pack of rolling tobacco with a pot of sambal in water, leaving it for 24 hours after which the water can be used for this, true or false?
I don't see the point of the sambal, that's the main reason for this question, I guess just tobacco will do fine then, I happen to have some tobacco plants available, what would be the best dried or fresh? most importantly there's a lot of discussion about what insecticide to use, will this also kill mealy bugs and/or mites? if so, I would prefer this 'biological' treatment above any chemical one.
Nicotine is potentially lethal and toxic to humans even by skin contact.
I have good results controlling mealies with Imidacloprid (probably as Provado in Holland?), and by controlling I mean totally eradicating from my collection. Being systemic, it kills anything foolish enough to try and feed on your plant for several months. It is not especially toxic to humans, certainly not dangerous at the levels you should be using on a few potted succulents.
I can't give you a good treatment for spider mites. They are very easy to kill, but its very difficult to kill every last one of them as well as all the eggs and nymphs and they come back very fast in greenhouse conditions. There are no systemic miticides available in Europe. Good contact miticides include some synthetic pyrethroids like bifenthrin (but not all pyrethroids so check the label), Malathion (resistance was widespread but reduced usage may mean reduced resistance), any soap or oil (or alcohol) spray (but watch for burning the plants), and a few specific miticides. I have found the Methiocarb in the Provado aerosol (but not other Provado products) to be the most effective killer but even that requires at least two applications. I also don't like that the Provado includes an insecticide that not only isn't useful against mites but can increase their numbers. Abamectin is another good miticide, available in Westland Bug Attack in the UK. Spraying weekly with a "mild" product like a soft soap until the problem is gone may be the best solution, because mites quickly develop resistance to miticides but can't develop resistance to smothering killers like soap. Even regular spraying with water to raise humidity may provide enough control.
I have good results controlling mealies with Imidacloprid (probably as Provado in Holland?), and by controlling I mean totally eradicating from my collection. Being systemic, it kills anything foolish enough to try and feed on your plant for several months. It is not especially toxic to humans, certainly not dangerous at the levels you should be using on a few potted succulents.
I can't give you a good treatment for spider mites. They are very easy to kill, but its very difficult to kill every last one of them as well as all the eggs and nymphs and they come back very fast in greenhouse conditions. There are no systemic miticides available in Europe. Good contact miticides include some synthetic pyrethroids like bifenthrin (but not all pyrethroids so check the label), Malathion (resistance was widespread but reduced usage may mean reduced resistance), any soap or oil (or alcohol) spray (but watch for burning the plants), and a few specific miticides. I have found the Methiocarb in the Provado aerosol (but not other Provado products) to be the most effective killer but even that requires at least two applications. I also don't like that the Provado includes an insecticide that not only isn't useful against mites but can increase their numbers. Abamectin is another good miticide, available in Westland Bug Attack in the UK. Spraying weekly with a "mild" product like a soft soap until the problem is gone may be the best solution, because mites quickly develop resistance to miticides but can't develop resistance to smothering killers like soap. Even regular spraying with water to raise humidity may provide enough control.
--ian
Using pyrethroids for mites is never a good way to get rid of them. Once you get rid of them on one plant with a spraying they tend to migrate to another. Strong jets of water and manual removal are fine for most cacti.
As for the nicotine, yes it is toxic to people but soaking it is not really harmful just don't drink the water of course you'll probably get an awful stomach ache.
As for the nicotine, yes it is toxic to people but soaking it is not really harmful just don't drink the water of course you'll probably get an awful stomach ache.